Backpacker Life in Australia

Getting a new job can be interesting all on its own. Getting a new job in another country, even more interesting. Getting a new job while in a new country and living out of a van, that’s when things get funky. Thousands of people are doing just that all over the world and for a while we joined the crowd.
That’s us with our trusty 1989 Mitsubishi Express van driving around the country looking for jobs.

For about six months we worked at a cafe in the mining town of Port Hedland on the West coast, south of Broome.

That’s the town. There was a constant coat of the rusty coloured iron ore dust on everything.

The port is the largest iron ore port in the world and there was constantly ships sailing in and out.
The ships have to get guided in by tug boats. We made lots of friends with captains, controllers, tug boat drivers and mine workers who gave us all the inside scoop and gossip. For a while there was a big debate whether a salt water crocodile had been spotted as far south as Port or whether it was myth.

One of the aspects of being a long term traveller is to find ways to cut costs. If we have a van that we are comfortable living out of, why pay for rent? This parking lot was home for about three months. As we worked early and late at the cafe, our van blended right in. We had a few neighbours that parked in the lot as well. All of us were quiet, respectful, actually cleaned garbage up from the parking lot not causing any trouble or notice. Can you even find our van in there?

There we are on the right in the nice shady spot. We had the best spot in the lot.

As so many people came into Port Hedland to work in high paying jobs in the mine, there was a huge need for transient workers to fill in the hospitality and service sector roles. There was a large backpacker community and this is what a typical Sunday afternoon would look like. Anyone who has ever lived out of a vehicle knows there is always something that will need to dry.

We meet lots of people and these are our French friends Joe and Helen that we still keep in touch with.
They had a super cool car. It used to be an ambulance.
Working and living out of a vehicle can be quite the feat and everyone had their own style and set up.
This fellow backpacker had a 3am shift he had to get up for as a cook in a mining camp. I did not envy his schedule.
Watching the sun rise turning and twisting the sky from grey to reds, pinks and blues we’d watch the morning come as we looked out to the ocean while eating breakfast. The local race track would exercise the horses up and down the beach in the morning and we’d have a shower here.

This was where an abandoned cat lived that I called ‘ Roxy Kitty.’ Homeless and feral cats are a huge problem in Australia because they eat the native birds who otherwise would not have them as predators. Although I do not usually endorse feeding animals, I feed Roxy Kitty because secretly I hoped his owners would return and then at least there was one less hungry cat that might otherwise eat a bird. Roxy Kitty usually only liked milk and wet cat food and would sometimes pick at dry cat food. Lots of different people seemed to look after Roxy Kitty. However at the cafe this wonderfully friendly and definitely homeless black cat started showing up. Then she showed up with four kittens. We did give them water to drink as they were such a disgusting pile of neglect. There was just no one to give the cats to and eventually I had to go and get a cage and call the Rangers to come and get them. It was only going to be five more reproductive feral cats scrounging around for a terrible existence of suffering. So while I’m talking about this, please follow Bob Barkers advice and have your pets spayed and neutered. I cried all night long when I was catching those kittens as I knew they would be put down and it was my hands that put them into a cage.

Working at the cafe we got to learn so many new skills and meet so many amazing people.

No, Chris did not kill the pig, he just cooked it. This was for a big catering event.

The same event flew in this living statue from Perth. As people’s alcohol intake increased so did their amazement with the living statue. I talked to her afterwards and she was a very nice young lady going to university. She almost didn’t apply for the job because it was in the ‘adults’ section of the newspaper. She called anyway to check it out and sure enough it was legit and she’s been a living statue all over Australia helping to pay for university.

There was all sorts of fancy arrangements and snow! They hired someone to make snow in the Pilbra which is like making snow for Death Valley National Park, USA.
Sign *I* made for new staff at cafe.
Before working in the cafe I didn’t even know what these coffees were. I’m a born American. I grew up believing the best coffee came from a Mr Coffee Maker and occasionally if I really wanted a treat I’d go to Starbucks and they would put some Carmel in the black water. I learned there’s a huge difference between how Americans and Austrlian/European countries are conditioned to drink coffee. I didn’t understand how hundreds of people would come into the cafe day after day to pay $5.00 for a cappuccino.  For weeks I practiced my barista skills, holding the frothing jug just right, pulling the shot, pouring the milk at just the right consistency. I drank and talked a lot of coffee to try and understand the art. Then one day, poof, I had it. It was late morning and I carefully crafted the milk into a cup and as I took a sip of the creamy froth I said, “I get it – this is what good coffee is supposed to taste like.” I’ve never been able to go back since. Even when we came home for six weeks for my sisters wedding, my dad gifted me a basic espresso machine for my birthday. Now I drink cappuccinos every day and my life has been better since.
Living in one area for multiple seasons has some advantages like watching a flat back turtle hatchling emerge to the world.  Flat back turtles are a very unique species of turtle found only to nest in Australia.
Hatchlings are so small and helpless it’s estimated only about 1 in 1000 will live till a reproductive age. Flat back are listed on the IUCN Red List of endangered species.
Not the very best of pictures, but that is Chris impatiently waiting for me to stop taking pictures as we were taking two of our house sitting dogs for a walk on the beach. By working in the cafe it didn’t take long till we knew just about everybody in town. As people are always leaving Port Hedland to go somewhere else to visit family or go on vacation there was a high need for house sitting. Our last three months we house sat for people back to back. It was quite a luxury and made for a wonderful win-win scenario.

We made many great friends during our time in Port which is another bonus of long term travel. Bonds happen so quickly when sharing time together as transient workers. No one has a particular lot of belongings with them yet everyone (we interacted with) was willing to share. There is something so sincere about opening yourself up to others and the rewards of long lasting warm friendships linger deeply in my bones.

As the sun set and our working visa expired we bid our goodbyes to the Pilbra.
We did love our time at the Silver Star. It is said of many places, once you live there, it is in your blood. The Pilbra is in our blood- to live and work or volunteer in a place, it becomes a part of you. Long term travel allows one the luxury of becoming part of a community and a chance to dig your toes into the dirt. If you are age thirty or under, many nationalities are allowed a working holiday visa once in their life to Australia and New Zealand. If you don’t use it you lose it. So jump on a plane and you may just find your self in the middle of nowhere calling the Pilbra your home too.
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9 Responses to “Backpacker Life in Australia

  • Looks like ‘Life on the Road’ treated you well! Lots of fun times with a few sad and immediate friendships, those things aren’t given to you, you got them by earning them!!!

  • Great post! It is nice to get clearer idea of how you guys live on the road and spend your lives. Australia seems like such a great place!

  • i love it!! all those shots of van sleeping are awesome. chris!! nice pig on a stick!! holeee!!

  • i love it!! great shots of people sleeping out oftheir vehicles – totally awesome! chris!! nice pig on a stick!! wowsers!!

  • EEEKk Baby Sea Turtles! Tiff these pictures are great! How i miss living in a wee little van in new zealand!

    • I miss hearing people use the word “wee little” or “wee lit’l” as part of normal, every day language. 🙂