Valparaiso, Chile
Street art, graffiti, bright colors, layers of dirt, garbage and immaculate lawns are all in the mix of what the visitor will find in Valparaiso, Chile. A UNESCO (United Nations Educational and Scientific Cultural Organization) World Heritage site, Valparaiso boosts a mix of some of the most talented street art to behold juxtaposed by the same eye sore graffiti one can find anywhere in the world. It’s a one of a kind city, one a person may go to and stay longer than they ever intended, leave with a few less of their possessions, have a great time or have a horrible time. Anything goes in Valparaiso – ‘goes’ being the key word as the city draws (no pun intended) thousands of visitors to roam it’s hilly streets.
We were led up and down incredibly steep hills on colored stairs all throughout the city.
The main attraction was simply to walk around the city itself and have a coffee at a little shop when one found they needed a break from all the steps. And if walking up steps is not your idea of fun, then you can take the escaleras, or little boxes, that for $100 CLP would haul you up and down the steep hill sides.
This big orange mural in the middle was one of the most famous pieces.
Lonely planet describes many of the houses as ‘crumbling mansions’ and the description was pretty accurate. Ignorance is bliss and we couldn’t see any crumbling foundations as we enjoyed breakfast on this patio overlooking the port.
This was the yellow house on the hill and it seemed like one good landslide would bring it slipping down the hill into a crumbling mess.
Sometimes Chris just likes to stop and stare at meat, because with me as a vegetarian, poor Chris is often left looking longing at everyone else’s plates of meat.
The city can be a tough place – even for the pigeons. I guess this group of birds thought they could find no better place to get their morning bath.
This photo with the dog was a metaphor for the vibe of Valparaiso. There were about four of us who stopped on the street to take a photo of this dog hanging out the window. He looked so cute and seemed to adore the attention he was receiving for his pose. Then all of a sudden (no one moved at all in our mini-circle) his mood changed and he was growling and snapping at us all. We all backed away just in case he could squeeze through those bars.
In a nutshell, that was the impression Valparaiso left us with. On one hand, it was this unique city with insanely talented artists, unique architecture and one of a kind attractions like the trolleybuses. On the other hand it, was a disgustingly dirty city, full of what were probably at one point nice people, who then turned into druggies, who then turned into muggers giving the city a real rough edge. Thefts happen frequently anywhere in the city at any time of the day.
Would I recommend to visit Valparaiso? Yes, definitely. We’ve never seen a city quite like it. Would I carry anything of value while you walk around? No way. We didn’t take our nice camera with us as multiple travelers we talked to were jumped in the middle of the afternoon. The potential of the city was incredible – if there could be just a slight crack down on crime and a clean up effort given it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of Chile’s most famous artist and poet’s, Pablo Neruda, back in the mid-1950s synopsis still sums up the state of the city, “Valparaiso, how absurd you are…you haven’t combed your hair, you’ve never had time to get dressed, life has always surprised you.”
Indeed it has.
***
We stayed at Hostal Casa Mirador, Abtao 457 Cerro Concepcion, (32) 2257098, www.hostalcasamiradro.cl, $24,000 CLP for 2 ppl. The hostal was pretty cool, but you could only take a hot shower in the morning, which was not convenient for us. We wanted to stay at Hostal Jacaranda, (find it on www.hostals.com), but they were full, however I did get to use the bathroom there and it seemed very nice and was $20,000 CLP.
Bus to Santiago, $3000 CLP pp.
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Beautiful artistry in an unusual city. Something a little different and I enjoyed seeing it.
We had no idea Valparaiso even existed. It was a totally different kind of city and one could linger there while writing their book.
Wow! Such a different lifestyle! Such a shame such a unique place is taken muddied by crime and pollution. Great post!
It was definitely a place to live for a while and take it all. It a way funky artist retreat type of city. We did enjoy our time there.
A city where graffiti is encouraged? Wonderful for the professional and amateur artist and the people who come to see. Too bad it seems to have attracted a criminal element with that.
Yeah, street art is what makes this town. There are just funky things everywhere. Santiago also has a similar vibe, but, at least to us, there is felt like there was a way stronger management of crime and keeping things clean, which lead us to believe if Valparaiso’s local city government wanted to do the same, they could still maintain that vibe, but just take a little of that rough edge off and reduce the pollution.
Neato! Loved all the artwork. Some of those murals were really well done! Love the rainbow stairs too. Had elements of Jamaica in the roughness, and then artwork like you’d see in the backalleys of Toronto. Very interesting place. I would like to write a book there. Nice job tiff n chris!
Yeah, there were some amazing murals. I could have posted so many more pictures and there was still so much I know we missed that was out there down some random road. It’s a great city to visit, but there are so many little knooks to explore, this would be a great destination to base yourself at if you are working on a project remotely, especially artistic. Lot of great vibe for that.
What a fun city! Whoduh thought, and in the middle of Chile yet! Gotta go there and ride the escaleras and paint!
The escaleras are totally cool, old school, still have those rotating doors you walk through to get on and the attendant has to step on a big metal foot pedal to let you in. There’s so many small, old touches to observe.
I loved all of the colors, I found your pictures and writing very inspiring!:)
Thanks! The colors indeed. This is a city full of colors, and a little layer of dirt. There is just art, art, art everywhere.
Never heard of this city but it’s a DEFINITE spot on my Go There list!
Sweet. Let us know how it goes when you visit. This is for sure a place to visit. Cheers!
Beautiful artwork. Far different from the same old. I’m going right now to see what else shows up on the net. Good post!
Thanks and great way to describe Valparaiso! “Far different from the same old.” Spot on. Glad you enjoyed. 🙂
I’ve been following your websight since your Inca Trail stories. You are a fun writer with beautiful photos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind words! This past week we pulled an (almost) all nighter just to stay up and use the internet to make sure we get post done. We had a twelve hour bus ride the next day, so figured we could just sleep then. 😉
I won’t be writing a book but it looks like a good place to do some photography! There is something different at every turn and I’m guessing you’ve only skimmed the surface. Beautiful colors and great subjects from the murals to the city itself! You must have enjoyed your stay there, nice post!
You are right, this post was just the surface. I spent a good deal of time trying to decide if I was putting too many photos in the post or not. There is just so much to see about the city. It was just a place you could live and notice something different every time you walk to the grocery store.
Sweet travel site! Haven’t read them all yet but the ones I did have been fun and different! Where to next?
Thanks! Next on this trip is Ushuaia, Trelew, Buenos Aires and Igazu Falls, Argentina. Next year we have our eyes set on Africa!
I have traveled thru Chile and never heard of this city! You made it look so good I have to go back and see. Thanks a LOT!
This city is definitely worth seeing. Hope you enjoy as much as we did!
I just love your photos and captions. And such a neat little town with unique murals. Love the colors. Love the blog. Thanks, Linda
Thanks Linda! Glad you were able to enjoy the colors and murals of Valparisio through this post. Cheers.
Great post with amazing photos. I liked the dog photo in partiular. Great work!
Thanks! That dog was so cute…till it all changed and he started snapping. In my mind, he was still a nice dog who was just guarding his turf.