Nullarbor Plain, Australia

The world’s largest single piece of limestone was once described as “a hideous anomaly, a blot on the face of Nature, the sort of place one gets into bad dreams,” by early European explorer Edward Eyre. Occupying an area of about 200,000 square kilometres, the Nullarbor Plain is a flat, almost treeless expanse of land along Australia’s southern edge between South Australia and Western Australia. From Latin, nullus, “no”, and arbor, “tree”, the Nullarbor is home to the longest straight section of railway in the world, 478 km/ 297 mi as well as the longest section of sealed road in Australia, 146.6km/ 91.1 mi (picture seen in New Year Wisdom post).

Talk with any old timer about crossing the Nullarbor in the early days and watch their eyes grow wide, head tilt back, hand slap to their knee, and with a proud, decibel raising explosion exclaim, “Well do I have a story for you….” I would then listen for twenty minutes to a story about how they crossed the Nullarbor when it was still all dirt, and they were sure their car was swallowed up a dozen times by the giant pot holes never to get out again, but somehow they did, and hundreds of kangaroos ran in front of them, and they got flat tyres but were able to carry on by patching the tyre out of a spare garden hose they had in their boot (Australian lingo for trunk).

From infancy to it’s current modernization of being paved in its entirety, the Nullarbor has earned it’s place as one of the most epic road journeys in the world. A contagious energy excites the people as they either inhabit the plain or venture across. A compulsion to decorate trees with various themes is showcased with stretches that go for miles of decorated shrubs. Upon successfully crossing people run into the shops to buy their “This Car Crossed the Nullarbor” stickers. We had much excitement ourselves finding iced coffees reduced at a road house, normally very dear (Australian for expensive) in such a remote location. It was a great energizer to get us through our goal of covering 600 km that day- (notice laundry hanging in hand hold of van for later reference). The world’s second largest marine park, Head of the Bight, located along this remote route is one of the best places to see the Southern Right Whale.

For me, crossing the Nullarbor holds one my most special nights in Australia. I remember looking out over the cliffs to the ocean on my left. Dusk was not yet upon us.

“Chris, we have to stop here,” I said.

It was too early. We could have driven another two hours before we would need to get off the road for the night. But this was the spot.

I drove our 89 Mitsubishi Van off the road and slowly bounced across the rocks to park atop a ridge over looking the ocean. This would be home for the night.

I just sat there in that time and space. I soaked up every second with the concious awareness that I was living this moment. I was so thankful that my senses could hear, see and feel the touch of the world around me. These are the moments I travel for. They cannot be planned. They can not be foreseen  They simply happen through the act of pursuing dreams.

With the road behind me and the ocean in front of me, I sat there for hours watching the world around me and this is what I wrote:


We are stopped on the Nullarbor Highway.
The sun is setting in front of us.
Birds are chirping.
Waves are breaking.
Giants of the sea are somewhere below and in front of us.
Wet laundry fills our van. Hope it’s sunny tomorrow.
Darkness comes with a welcome.

A sense of place-
that is what I am getting tonight.

To be out here in the middle of the Nullarbor Plain.
One of the greatest, most epic road journeys in the world.
And to have seen the Southern Right Whales at one of the bet viewing locations in the world.
Amazing.
We are so privileged. We are so lucky.
We choose to spend our whole lives travelling and exploring this world.

Tonight- as the world spins slowly on it’s axis- there are perhaps a few hundred odd travellers camped along the Nullarbor…somewhere…

But not here.

We are having this experience unique unto ourselves- yet still shared by the hundreds traversing through this barren, desolate landscape-
Shared by animals rarely seen- hiding in their holes and crevices.

One cannot help but feel a certain sense of power for the ability to traverse this terrain unscathed-
Yet acknowledging a greater sense of humility and begging from the gods to not allow bad luck to be bestowed upon us during our time on the Nullarbor.

It’s getting dark now.
I can’t remember how long ago the last car has passed.
A stillness sets in- yet juxtaposed with the ever constant crashing waves and pushing winds around us.

Time on the Nullarbor is passing.